Exfoliation 101 With Clinique's Guiding Dermatologist

Q. What are the benefits of daily exfoliation versus exfoliation treatments?

Generally we recommend relatively gentle exfoliation twice a day with the appropriate Clarifying Lotion. Keep in mind that it's better to adjust the strength of the exfoliation than to change the frequency. In other words, it's better to exfoliate twice a day using mild or moderate exfoliation than to exfoliate once a week with an extremely harsh process, like a very rough scrub, for example. Exfoliation is comparable to exercise; it's better to follow a custom fit, moderate program on a regular basis, than to overdo it, randomly. If your skin is accustomed to daily exfoliation, it's OK to exfoliate more aggressively on occasion, either at home or at the dermatologist's office (daily training versus an occasional marathon).

Q. How can exfoliating daily help your skin look younger?

Daily exfoliation improves the surface appearance and function of the skin. Studies show that exfoliation increases epidermal turnover rate, resulting in a clearer, smoother, more even-toned skin which has greater translucency, than skin which is not exfoliated on a regular basis.

Q. What are the benefits of chemical vs. physical exfoliants?

Chemical exfoliants may have an additional beneficial action, such as acting as an anti-bacterial. Chemical exfoliation is also easier to control. However, both types will benefit the skin.

We have found salicylic acid, a chemical exfoliant, to be the absolutely best exfoliator for over-the-counter use. There are so many benefits to salicylic acid: it is a gentle, effective, non-allergenic exfoliator. It has anti-microbial properties. Salicylic acid slows down or interrupts the mechanisms that contribute to the skin looking aged. It's time-proven. Another advantage of salicylic acid as an exfoliator is that it's not a photo sensitizer. Some exfoliators can make your skin a bit more sensitive to sunlight, salicylic acid will not. In 40 years, we have never seen an allergic reaction to salicylic acid.

Q. What is the history of salicylic acid?

The benefits of salicylic acid were first recognized over 2,000 years ago when ancient healers found that bark stripped from a willow tree and steeped on hot water could alleviate the pain of a tribe member suffering with a headache, toothache or even a fever, which at that time could be a potential cause of death. If a high fever could be lowered before it killed the patient, it would allow the body time to heal and overcome the infection. From this early understanding - that there was something in willow bark - chemists, thousands of years later, were motivated to isolate and identify salicylic acid.

As you may be aware, the first "wonder drug," aspirin, was synthesized by chemical modification of salicylic acid. Very shortly after, physicians, primarily those in Europe, began incorporating salicylic acid into skin care treatment. Remember, this was over a hundred years ago - neither antibiotics nor cortisone had yet been developed. Salicylic acid was truly the first miracle drug. Doctors of that day found that it was very useful for treating a wide range of skin maladies such as bacterial infection, fungus infection, psoriasis and acne - so they incorporated it into many interesting products.

Salicylic acid has been used in dermatology for the past 150 years. It has been Clinique's signature ingredient for more than 30 years - and will continue to be so in the future. In our opinion, no other exfoliating agent is superior to salicylic acid.

Q. Should the hands be exfoliated?

Like all skin, the skin on the hands should be exfoliated. Since hands tend to be dry, this area calls for an especially rich moisturizer. During very dry or cold months, it's helpful to put on a very heavy moisturizer or petroleum jelly on the hands after exfoliating, and cover with cotton gloves before going to sleep. This intensive moisture therapy will also benefit the nails and cuticles.

Q. Should we exfoliate the eye area?

In theory, it is fine; in practice, it is easy to over-exfoliate, resulting in dryness and/or irritation. There is also the risk of the product getting into the eye. I recommend staying away from the immediate eye area to avoid any problems.

Q. When is a good age to start exfoliating?

The teenage years. Exfoliation will help to keep acne at bay, and improve the overall appearance of the skin.

Q. Do we need to exfoliate more during certain times of the year?

Yes, greater exfoliation is necessary during hot humid months. Remember that when your skin is under attack from UV rays (in defense mode), your skin will not shed, or turnover, as often as it should. This could result in dense, clogged skin and even acne at the end of the summer. I get more complaints about acne in September than any other time of year. So I tell my patients to use a non-clogging sunscreen and exfoliate more throughout the summer to avoid this problem. The summer months are often a great time to "step up" your level of Clarifying Lotion.

Q. Can we use same methods on face and body or if they have different needs?

The same products may be used, but the intensity may be varied. Some products specifically intended for the body may not be advisable for use on the face for a variety of reasons (a strong fragrance, for example). It's a personal choice, as always, let your skin's comfort be your guide. We do recommend chemical exfoliation for the chest and back areas.

Q. Can chemical exfoliation have benefits for acne?

Yes. Exfoliating serves the purpose of unclogging the pores, which allows the oil to flow freely to the surface and therefore would help to reduce the first lesions of acne, which are blackheads and whiteheads. If one can prevent the clogging of pores, it goes a long way to preventing the formation of pimples.

Q. Does exfoliation help improve the effectiveness of anti-aging treatments?

Yes. Exfoliation improves penetration and allows for maximum results when it comes to moisturizers and anti-aging treatments.

Q. What is the right amount of exfoliation?

The need to exfoliate depends on skin type and the degree of exfoliation will vary from person to person, time of year and the environment and lifestyle. By having a variety of products with which to exfoliate, you can adjust the level of exfoliation by applying one or more of these products. Clinique's Clarifying Lotions provide a range of different strengths of exfoliation so you can "step up or down" according to your needs - just like you would adjust an exercise program. And just as reputable gyms have certified trainers, Clinique has consultants who are trained to assess your skin's individual "fitness level" in order to prescribe the right program that matches your skin's type and condition.

Q. If it is true that skin thins as you get older, is it not bad for your skin to exfoliate day and night as you get older?

The great thing about Clinique's 3-step system is that it can be customized to work for your skin type. Therefore, if as you get older, you start to feel that your skin is sensitive to the Clarifying Lotion you use, you can switch to a milder formula, or vary the intensity or frequency with which you use exfoliating products. But it is not harmful to exfoliate older skin, as long as you use an appropriate formula/appropriate frequency. In fact, as epidermal turn over rate slows down with age, exfoliation takes on greater importance in keeping the skin looking fresh and radiant, and allowing moisturizers to be effectively absorbed, which help to keep the skin looking youthful.

source from http://beauty.ivillage.com