Thursday, March 27, 2008

How To Shape Your Eyebrows

Few things make you appear more groomed than well-plucked eyebrows. Many women have their eyebrows tweezed or threaded professionally and the trend is so hot, eyebrow boutiques are popping up in big cities across the country. I recommend you have a professional do your eyebrows first to set a 'blueprint', then all you have to do is pluck where the hairs grow in. (A pro waxing should set you back about $20 depending on where you live). Here's some tips on how to tweeze your own eyebrows.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: 10 minutes

Here's How:

  1. The biggest mistake people make is to tweeze too much. Avoid overplucking as it can take months for brows to grow back. Here's a simple trick to remember: The space between your brows should be equal to, or a little wider than, your eyes. To find where your brow should go, take a long eyeshadow brush or pencil and hold it parallel to the side of your nose. Where the brush meets your brow is where your brow should begin.
  2. To find the end of your brow, extend the brush diagonally from your nostril, following the outside edge of your eye toward the brow. Where the inside edge of the brush hits is where your brow should end.
  3. The best brows have a slight arch. To find yours, hold the brush parallel to the outside edge of the colored part of your eye (the iris). Where the brush meets the brow is where the highest part of your brow should be.
  4. Cleanse your skin. Exfoliating with a gentle scrub (I like Biore) helps prep the area as well. Worried about pain? Expert aesthicians suggest applying to the brow Anbesol, Orajel or any teething gel for babies. Brush brows up and out.
  5. You'll want to invest in a good pair of tweezers with a slanted edge (my favorite, hands down, are Tweezerman slanted tweezers
    You also want to make sure you're near a window with light pouring in or under a bright light with a good mirror (magnifying mirrors are best, but be sure and flip it over to see your overall effect in the regular mirror).
  6. Make sure to pluck hairs in the direction they grow. Don't grab too many hairs at a time. You can hold skin taut as you pluck.
  7. It's a myth that brows should never be tweezed from above. You want both the bottoms and tops to be smooth. So be careful, but tweeze the top AND the bottom.
  8. Stop every few hairs to step back and look at the job you're doing. If you overpluck, you're stuck. Unlike most hairs on your body, your brows won't always grow back once they're yanked.
  9. Once you're done plucking, you can apply aloe vera gel, which will calm the redness right away.

Tips:

  1. To ensure your tweezers maintain their firm grip, regularly wipe the tips with alcohol to remove any oily build up. Also, keep in mind that Tweezerman will sharpen your tweezers for free when they dull. (I always lose mine before they become dull).
  2. If your brows are sparse or spotty, you can fill them in by pressing a brown shadow into your brow. Chanel's Perfect Brow Compact is the ultimate brow shadow. It's expensive, but worth the price. Plucked too much? Ji Baek, owner of Rescue Beauty Lounge in Manhattan suggests in Elle Magazine that you stimulate hair growth by massaging brows with a toothbrush.
  3. If you use a pencil to fill in sparse brows, apply with short, feathered strokes from the inside of the brow out. Then carefully rub brows with a brush or your fingertips to soften the effect.
  4. Brow gel helps keep your brows in place all day. Or if you don't have gel, apply a dab of hairspray to your finger and use it to keep unruly hairs in place.
  5. I've saved the best tip for last. The ideal time for brow-shaping is the week after your period begins.

What You Need:

  • A great pair of tweezers. My recommended choice: Tweezerman
  • A mirror, preferably magnifying
  • Anbesol or children's teething gel if you're afraid of pain



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I Overplucked My Eyebrows. What Can I Do?

Question: I Overplucked My Eyebrows. What Can I Do?

Answer: The worst thing one can do is overpluck. Well, not the worst. But be careful because once plucked, your eyebrows can take months to eventually grow back. Until that happens, fill in bare spots with a brow powder or pencil. It’s best to use light, feathery strokes to create a realistic look, rather then drawing a line. Set the color with brow gel.

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How To Fill in Sparse Eyebrows

According to makeup experts, including Bobbi Brown in her book, "Beauty," almost every woman needs to fill in her brows as part of her normal beauty routine. Bobbi's claims are backed up by the editors of Allure's "Confessions of a Beauty Editor," who state that makeup artist Dick Page once informed them he'd never seen a model who didn't need her brows filled in.

If. like most women, you were born with sparse brows or simply went too far with the tweezers, there is a fix to filling in your eyebrows. All it takes is a pencil, powder, and an angled brush or a clean mascara brush.

Tip 1: Pick a Pencil and Powder Shade

Pencils and powders tend to stick to skin, not to hair, so if you don't have a lot of hair you'll want to shade in the skin where hair should grow.

Select a soft pencil (hard pencils tend to be too waxy) which is a shade lighter than your brows and a powder which matches the color of brows. If brows are super fair, choose a pencil that's a shade darker than brows.

Tip 2: Prep the Brows

First, comb out brows with a clean mascara wand. Examine brows for any sparse spots.

Tip 3: Fill in With Pencil

Use the pencil to fill in the sparse spots with short, feathery strokes. Apply in the direction of hair growth. The key here is not to create a definite line, but to create the appearance of hair. Be careful not to pencil in the entire brow, which will result in an unnatural look.

Your pencil should be super soft so it goes on with little exertion. But if you have a pencil that's too hard, warm the tip up by rubbing it between your fingers.

Tip 4: Follow With Eyeshadow or Brow Powder

Dip an agled brush or a clean mascara wand in eyeshadow. Brush the powder along the brows. It should stick to the pencil, while also acting to blend in the color perfectly. For more staying powder, dampen the brush slightly before dipping it into color.

Tip 5: Two Colors Instead of One?

You can try two colors when filling in brows: A light powder where brows are thickest and a darker shade for the tail ends.

Tip 6: Set Brows

To keep brows in place, spritz hairspray on your finger and brush onto the brow.

Tip 7: Uh-oh, Overplucked?

If you've overplucked, it will take a few months to a couple years for hair to grow back.

Tip 8: Condition Brows

Conditioning your brows with castor oil is a great way to keep brows healthy and looking great, according to Rami Gafni in the September 2005 issue of Instyle Magazine. Gafni uses a clean mascara wand to apply the castor oil.

Tip 9: The Shape of Brows

Fuller brows are preferable to skinny ones. Have eyebrows shaped by a pro every four weeks. Use a good tweezer (Tweezerman is our hands-down favorite), to clean up the hairline in between visits.

Tip 10: Rogaine Can Help

If your brows don't grow fast enough, consider Women's Rogaine or men's extra-strength Rogaine applied to the sparse areas with a Q-Tip. According to the September, 2006, issue of Allure, experts recommend applying twice a day for four months. But do a test patch first on your inner wrist to make sure you don't get a rash. Check the patch after a day.

Some products we hear great things about:

Revlon Brow Fantasy pencil and gel($7.50 at any drugstore)
Cover Girl Natural Lash and Brow Mascara (purchase at drugstores)
Sephora eyebrow brush (at any Sephora stores).
MAC brow set (this colored gel is $12 at any MAC counter)
Bobbi Brown Natural Brow Shaper (Bobbi Brown counters at department stores).
DiorShow Brow & Liner Brush (www.dior.com).
Cle de Peau Beaute eyebrow palette ($65 at select department stores)

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Quick Tip for Night- Time Makeup--How not to Overdo It

If you're going out & you want to look fabulous, just remember this simple tip: Either play up your eyes or your mouth, never both. If you accentuate both features, you risk looking dated (remember the 80s?), harsh & artificial.

If you choose to play up your eyes, you can be as dramatic as you want with eyeliner, shadow & mascara. But stick to gloss or a light lipstick shade for your lips. You want your eyes to 'pop.' But you don't want them competing with your lips.

If it's your lips you want to accentuate, paint on a strong shade & line just your upper lashes with a couple strokes of mascara to finish your eyes. If your eyelids have bluish lines, you can mask that with face powder or concealer, but stay away from colored shadows -- the lighter, the better.


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When Should I Throw Out Mascara?

Question: When Should I Throw Out Mascara?

Answer: Mascara is one makeup product in your bag that you want to keep tabs on. It's a breeding ground for bacteria. Most mascaras with a tube & a wand have an antibacterial agent in them that last about 6 weeks making you safe for at least a couple months & likely safe up to 4. You risk eye infection the longer you keep the product. If you notice the smell changes or the texture changes, throw it out. It's not worth it.

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Best Mascaras on the Market from Cheap to Steep --9. Lancome Hypnose

Lancome sent us this mascara and we must admit, at first we were skeptical. After all, it had an odd shape and we are addicted to Lancome's Definicils. Why mess with a good thing? After trying it, we have to say the odd shape of the brush takes some getting used to, but the color goes on smooth and silky without clumping. Another great mascara from Lancome.
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Best Mascaras on the Market from Cheap to Steep --8. L'Oreal Voluminous

InStyle Magazine named L'Oreal Voluminous it's Best Beauty Buy mascara in it's 2005 issue. Enhanced with hair conditioners panthenol and cermide-R, this product is a must-have. Makeup artists love it because, like the other best mascaras, it adds volume without clumping.

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Best Mascaras on the Market from Cheap to Steep --7. Maybelline XXL Volume+Length

This mascara can be found in many a makeup artist's box. Celeb makeup artist Troy Surratt swears by this in Elle Magazine. Surratt piles this stuff on to complete his famous smoky eyes (you may have seen them on Hilary Duff or Maggie Gyllenhaal).
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Best Mascaras on the Market from Cheap to Steep --6. Rimmel Volume Flash Mascara

Lucky Magazine named this a must-have beauty buy in it's April 2006 issue. Why? As an ultra-volumnizer, it makes your eyes look super big.
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Best Mascaras on the Market from Cheap to Steep --5.Revlon Luxurious Lengths Mascara

Allure named this mascara a favorite in their January 2006 issue. At $6.99 you get a lot for your money: A flat side that layers on gel-based color and a curved side that lifts and separates lashes.

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Best Mascaras on the Market from Cheap to Steep --4. Best Waterproof Mascara: Maybelline Great Lash

Now, we're getting into the budget mascara. Maybelline Great Lash waterproof mascara is a classic and reputed to be the best-selling waterproof mascara ever created. It doesn't clump, lasts a long time and won't come off easily.

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Best Mascaras on the Market from Cheap to Steep --3.Bobbi Brown 'Everything'

In the September, 2006, issue of Marie Claire magazine, Serena Williams, a self-avowed 'total beauty junkie' gives a big plug to this mascara.
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Best Mascaras on the Market from Cheap to Steep --2.Best volumnizing Mascara : Prescriptives 'Lash Envy'

Another favorite of makeup artists and beauty experts, Prescriptives 'Lash Envy' Mascara has a Volumatrix Polymer that keeps lashes full and plumped all day


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Best Mascaras on the Market from Cheap to Steep --1.Lancome Definicils

Named the best mascara several years in a row in InStyle magazine's Best Beauty Buys issue, this Lancome Definicils not only lengthens lashes, but won't clump. I use it every day, having tried many mascaras. Keep in mind: Mascara is one beauty product you don't need to spend money on (see other best buys below). However, I happily spend the $20 or so this product costs.
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Is it OK to Wear Blue Eyeshadow?

Remember the old days when beauty editors and experts swore off blue eyeshadow (in fact, we had an article on this site that called jewel-toned blue eyeshadow a 'no-no')? Not anymore.


Deep jewel colors continue to be trendy and blue is the hottest shade of them all. It also looks gorgeous with all eye colors.

Even better news! According to the Ladies Home Journal March, 2006, issue, makeup companies have come up with a new way to compress more pigment than ever into their eye shadows. Now you can pick a shade that looks the same on your eyelids as it does through the plastic cover on the container. In the past, shadows went on lighter or in some cases, muddier. Not anymore. Now you can buy without fear of hating the color.

Just remember when applying deeply-hued shadows to blend well and keep the rest of your makeup light.



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How To Wear Vibrant Eyeshadows

Yes, those jewel-toned eyeshadows are in, but how to wear them? Here are some basic tips to consider:

Blending is key The richest colors should stay closest to the lashline, fading as it reaches your eye's crease, according to Barneys New York makeup artist Carlos Geraci in the April 2006 'O' magazine.

Pick colors that flatter your eyes & skin color Blue shadows make blue eyes pop, while lilac & purples are gorgeous on brown eyes & black-skinned & olive-skinned women. If you have pink skin (as opposed to a yellow base), avoid pinky-purples.

Use 2 shadows, a light & a dark Pick a soft color for the entire eye area up to the browbone & then use the darker color only up to your eye's crease.

Keep the rest of your makeup light Nude lips with gloss suits these strong eyes perfectly. Avoid colors on lips, they'll not only compete with your strong eyes, but the colors could clash.



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Top 9 Eyeshadows in the Market

Here we list the 10 best eyeshadows on the market you can find in department stores & even grocery stores. Click on the 'buy direct' link to see how much they cost.

1. Best Single Shadows: Prescriptives

These individual shadows run about $13 each & come in a variety of colors. They go on silky & smooth, tend not to clump & we love the shimmery jeweled tones.

2. Best Smoky Eye: NARS Night Breed Shadow

Smoky eyes are here to stay. For girls with dark hair & eyes, this dark color is exquisite. We hear this is the most popular brand in the Persian Gulf city of Dubai, where smoky eyes are super hot.

Runner-up: Cargo Smoky Eyeliner Duo in Budapest (about $28)

3. Best Grocery Store Shadow : Revlon Illuminance Eye Shadows

Don't want to splurge on $15 shadows? You can get great eye shadows in your grocery store. Revlon palettes are rich, glide on smoothly & have a staying power you won't see in other basic grocery store & drugstore brands.

Runner up: L’Oreal Wear Infinite Duos

4. Best Splurge Shadow: Dior 5-Colour Eyeshadow

Posh to the extreme, Dior's bold shadows are rich, silky & made with such intense pigments, they seem to last forever. You'll love how they go on like velvet. Wear each shade alone, or combine 2, 3, or all 5 shades. Our favorite palette for spring & summer: Flower Blossom.

5. Best Everyday Eyeshadow: Lancome’s Color Focus Eye Quads

Considered 'must-have' makeup by Harper's Bazaar, Lancome's Color Focus palettes come in a perfect palette of shades, from muted to bright, matte to pearl. Travel-size runs you $15, while full-size is $38.

Runner-up: Laura Mercier Eye Colour

6. Best Cream Shadow : MAC’ Paints’

The secret to shadow that stays on all-night long: Cream shadows. We wear this under our shimmery powder shadows & the shadow never cakes in the creases (caused by oils). Buy at MAC stores or maccosmetics.com.

Runner up: Laura Mercier Eye Color in Titanium. We also love American Coffee.

7. Best Vibrant Shadows: Lancome Color Design

Strong eyes are in with the emphasis on jeweled colors: blues, purples & greens. The secret to their deep hues lies in the intense pigments. You'll find these shadows are super-silky & glibe & blend easily.

We love Lancome's new line of 43 shades in 5 finishes. Go for the pigment-packed 'Intense' shades (we love the purply 'trendy') & keep your color below your crease.

8. Best Shimmer Shadows: Clinique Color Surge Eyeshadow Super Shimmer

No shadow is sexier than the new glimmer ones. Glittery shadows have been all the rage since winter & show no signs of going away. We like this Clinique shadow, but almost every beauty brand has shimmery shadows. Whether you go for creams or powder, you'll love the incandescent glows these cast.

Runner-up: Smashbox Eye Shadow in Champagne. Don't let the color on this link fool you. Clickthrough to see the gorgeous copper shimmer.

9. Best Pink Shadow: Clarins Soft Cream Eye Colour in Sugar Pink

Pink shades are hot for spring & summer 2006 & compliment every skin shade. Our favorite is Clarins Soft Cream Eye Colour in Sugar Pink.


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How To Get Smoky Eyes

Smoky eyes have been a big style for quite awhile and there's no sign this particular trend is dying. Here we show you step-by-step instructions on how to get the perfect smoky eye.

The key to the perfect smoky eye is proper blending. You want to make sure colors are blended together flawlessly. Also, it's important to pair light base colors with rich dark colors. Nice mixes include: Soft gold base with deep purple on top, champagne base with bright blue and peach base with green hue.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 5 minutes

Here's How:

  1. Prep the lid. The key to keeping eyeshadow from melting into your eyelid crease as the day goes on is to kept eyelids oil-free. To do this start with an eyeshadow base (also called "primer"). I prefer to dab at bit of MAC’s paint’ on lids before shadow application. Or try Fresh Freshface Perfecting Eye Primer
  2. Apply eyeliner. If you're going for a typical black, brown or gray smoky eye, apply liner in one of those colors above the upper lash line, drawing line thicker in the middle of eye. If your opting for a jewel-toned eye (violet makes a gorgeous smoky eye), line eyes with a purple, blue or deep green liner.
  3. Blend in color on bottom lashes For color on the bottom (a key smoky eye look) you'll want a lighter eyeliner. The key is to "smudge it." You can also apply a bit of shadow to get full smudge effect.
  4. Apply light base color Again, the key to a smoky eye is pairing a lighter base with the darker hue. I prefer a nice cream shade for my base. Sweep a light, shimmery shadow over the lids to your browbone. I love Stila’s whipped eye shadows $20. The moist "mousse" consistency seems to stay on forever. My favorite colors are taupe and pearl.
  5. Blend in darker color, but keep dark color below the crease. Now that you have the base and eyeliner on, it's time to get the smoky effect. You need a darker eyeshadow shade. Using an eyeshadow brush blend in color starting at your lash line, blending up. Make sure to blend color into the lash line so the eye liner disappears. Stop deep color at crease.
  6. Doublecheck your work Make sure eyes match and blend color with a Q-tip if need be.
  7. Finish with several coats of volumizing mascara. Tried and true mascaras (featured in "Elle" magazine's March 2006 issue) include DiorShow Mascara & L’Oreal Paris Volume Shocking Mascara. Elle's writer says they are the best volumizers she's tried.

Tips:

  1. Remember to keep lips nude. When applying strong makeup (like smoky eyes or red lips) put the focus on either eyes or lips, never both. (Think Angelina Jolie: She either plays up her huge eyes or her huge lips, never both. If she did, she'd look like a clown).
  2. For a bit of fun, try a blue or purple mascara. It will make blue eyes "pop."
  3. Liner doesn't have to come in pencil form. Makeup experts know eyeshadows make some of the best eyeliners. To do this take an eyeliner brush (available at Sephora, MAC or any dept store), wet it, then dab wet brush into the dark shadow. This allows for a deep, precise line. You can also use the dark shadows without wetting brush first. Either way, eyeliner is necessary for smoky eye.
  4. This season go jewel-toned (blue is great for you blue-eyed girls) and keep your eyes smoky but stay away from dark browns and black. Instead, go for a deep purple, a gold-brown or any of the many vibrant colors in this year.

What You Need:

  • Eye primer (you don't need it, but it's great for keeping shadow in place)
  • 2 Shadows: One light, one darker
  • Eyeliner
  • Makeup brushes
  • Mascara


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How To Evening Look: How To Make Up Your Eyes in 8 Steps

When evening calls for a glamourous look, you want to focus on making your eyes amazing. Here are eight simple steps to making up your eyes for evening.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 10 minutes

Here's How:

  1. Prep your eyes with concealer Concealer can be used to cover up undereye circles or just the bluish discoloration just under your inner eye. To cover dark undereye circles, apply three dots of concealer under each eye. Start at the inner corner where skin tends to be darkest, then under the pupil and the third on the outer edge. Pat, never rub with your ring finger (this finger tends to have the softest pad) until it disappears.
  2. Apply eye base to your lid Eye base is the secret to keeping your shadow in place for hours. Without properly priming your lid first, your eyeshadow will likely end up a greasy line in your crease.
  3. Apply shadow. It's great to use a three-toned shadow and build from lids to brow. Allowing them to blend into each other like a rainbow is gorgeous, according to celebrity makeup artist Mally Roncal. Start with a light color that almost matches your lid. Sweep the color across the lid and up to your browbone. Follow with a medium color across your lid only. Build on this with a darker color in the crease. Blend the colors well.
  4. Follow with eyeliner Dark eyeshadows work great as eyeliners. Wet a slanted brush, then dip in a dark eyeshadow. Line eyes as close to the upper lashes as possible from the inner corner to the outer corner. Follow with liner on bottom eyes, but only line from the middle of the eye out. Smudge the bottom line with a Q-tip or your finger. You don't want a prominent line. For a smokey eye, use a brush to pat in a dark eyeshadow along the upper lid and below the lid. You don't want a stark line, instead you want to blend it so it's 'smudge-y.'
  5. Brighten your eyes with a highlighter This step involves only the inside part of the eye. With a gold or pink highlighter (white is too bright), draw a v-shaped shape that follows the inner corner of your eye from top to bottom. Blend with your fingers. This will help make eyes 'pop.'
  6. Highlight your brow Take the same highlighter and dab it on your browbone, concentrating on your mid-brow outward. Blend with your finger.
  7. Curl lashes An eyelash curler will make even long lashes look more gorgeous. For added effect, you can heat the curler under a blowdryer for a couple seconds. Test curler before applying to lashes because you could burn yourself.
  8. Apply mascara Place the wand of your mascara brush at the bottom of lashes and wiggle back and forth. Follow with another few sweeps of the wand. Apply to bottom lashes as well.

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The Trick to Making Your Eyes Look Bigger

Ever look at those pictures of celebrities before makeup and after? My favorite celebrity is Gwyneth Paltrow and I was thrilled one day to see her without makeup. Her eyes just disappeared. Yet in photos, she has luminous eyes. So what's the secret?

There are actually several. To get huge eyes try these tricks:

1. Always curl lashes before applying mascara. You can actually curl lashes AFTER mascara is applied, as long as your mascara is dried (a good tip to know if you want to curl your lashes later in the day without removing your mascara).

2. Don't forget your bottom lashes. For years I avoided mascara on them until a makeup expert showed me how much mascara on my lower lashes really make my eyes pop. I rarely go without now. To apply mascara on lower lashes, hold the brush vertically, then sweep it back and forth.

3. Individual false lashes are exotic, gorgeous and can look natural if applied correctly. Large cities offer "lash bars" in the hottest department stores. (Henri Bendel, Bergdorfs and more, for example) but I expect the counters at most department stores will have experts in false lashes. Ask at yours.

Don't want to go to department store? Drugstores carry false eyelashes. If they're too long, you can trim them with scissors.

4. For a doe-eyed, seductive look, makeup artist *Paul Starr suggests you try lining your lower lids with a creamy white eye pencil. He likes Estee Lauder Artists’s Eye Pencil in Whiter ($18.50).

5. White Liner may sound odd, but it really opens up the eye. You can also try putting it on the inside corner of both your upper and your lower lids.

6. Another way to open up eyes is to skip the white eyeliner and opt instead for a platinum highlighter. Dot along the browbone, then blend in. Apply highlighter at the inner corners of your eyes. Follow with eye shadow.

7. Make sure your brows are manicured. Until you get your brows professionally waxed, tweezed or threaded, you won't realize how much they affect the rest of your face. Cleaning up your brow line of stray hairs, adding a slight arch and filling in sparse spots are key to making eyes look much larger.

I find once you get a professional brow job, you can do it yourself for a few months using the pro job as a "map" of where to tweeze. To keep brows in place, try a clear eyebrow gel like Maybelline Great Lash Clear Mascara or just spritz a bit of hairspray onto an old toothbrush and brush brows in perfect place.

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Keep Eyeshadow in Place for Hours

I hate the way eyeshadow wears out by the end of the day, all of it sliding into the crease of the eye leaving you looking like you've taken to lining the middle of your lid with goop. I figured there wasn't much you could do about it until I went to the M.A.C. counter and had a makeover a couple years ago. It was there I was turned on to M.A.C.'s 'Paints' collection.

The pearlized texture stays put all day and into the night and I'm convinced it wouldn't leave your lid for weeks if you didn't take makeup remover to it. You spread it on your lid then top it with your eyeshadow and Voila! your good to go for days.

I like 'Stilife' but there are a dozen colors to choose from.

After this article was initially published on our blog, a reader wrote in to say she preferred Urban Decay's Primer Potion to MAC Paints. What I like about this primer is it goes on clear, unlike the paints, which can be messy.

For a cheaper option than these two, you can try Revlon's ColorStay 12 Hour Eyeshadow (only $4.29 for a single shade or $6.29 for a quad)



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How To Apply Eyeshadow-- 10 tips and tricks I wish I knew 20 years ago

I'm a beauty editor and yet it took me years to figure out how to apply eyeshadow that:


1. Wasn't crooked (mismatched eyes!)
2. Wasn't too dark or blotchily blended (yes, I know "blotchily" is not a word)
3. Didn't extend to the wrong, wrong, wrong upper reaches of my eyelids

After years of seeing makeup artists in action and learning numerous eyeshadow tips and tricks, here are my 10 favorites I wish someone had told me twenty years ago:

Secret #1: Blending is key

Ok, well I sorta knew this, but I wasn't sure HOW TO BLEND. You use three different colors: The base, usually a very light taupe, a highlighter for the crease and a main color for the lid, but how to get them to look as if they merge into each other like the colors of a rainbow? My secret: Start light then go darker. Brush the base color, apply the lid color and THEN apply the highlighter. Also, don't be too heavy-handed or you'll have to start over. Extra tip: Practice makes perfect. Play with your makeup a few days before a big event.

Secret #2: Choose shadows that make the color of your eyes pop

Gone are the days when beauty experts advised against blue shadow. Matching the color of your eye with a shadow actually brings the color out (think blue shadow on blue eyes). At the same time, contrasting colors make eyes pop too (think a deep jeweled blue shadow on deep brown eyes).

Secret #3: Never cover your browbone with deep color -- unless you're doing a cover shoot for Vogue

You don't want the drama too much shadow brings. Apply shadow up to the browbone but don't apply shadow ON the bone unless it's a neutral color or a highlighter.

Secret #4: Highlighter can make or break your look

When applying dark shadow to the crease of your eye, be careful to blend only on the outside edge. Get to close to the eye and you'll cause your eyes to look teeny and beady.

Secret #5: Set shadow with a great base

Primers are super hot right now because they help set makeup that stays for hours. I've found the secret to keeping shadow in place for hours is a shadow base. Almost everyone makes them but I swear by MAC Paints.

Secret #6: Shimmer is hot, but plays up wrinkles

Shimmer makes eyes really pop, but it also highlights heavy lids, lines and wrinkles. A great look for shimmer is to create a 'nude' lid, but apply a bit of gold shimmer to the browbone. Gorgeous!

Secret #7: Smokey is great, but keep it to the lid

Making up a smokey eye? Keep color to the lid and just under the lower lashline. Don't extend color above the crease.

Secret #8: How to pair shadow with red lips

Remember the beauty rule 'Thou Shalt Not Play up the Lips AND the Mouth.' If you're going for dramatic red lips (never out of fashion), cover unsightly blue lines on lids with a concealer or shadow primer and then keep eyeshadow light.

Secret #9: Make eyes brighter with white

A dot of white shadow or pencil on the inside of the eye near the tear duct will make eyes look brighter.

Secret #10: Go for color Taupe and lavender look great on all eye colors.

Also consider mixing shades if you bought a color that's just too bold for you. Mixing an electric blue with taupe can turn out the most perfect color.

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How To Apply Eyeliner-- Eyeliner Tips & Tricks

Eyeliner can make even the smallest eyes appear larger. Applying it correctly is key, you don't want the line to be too dark, harsh and obvious or you risk looking overdone. Here we share our favorite tried-but-true eyeliner tips.

The Basic, "I'm Off to Work or the Weekend," Eye

This is the perfect work or weekend look for women who want their eyes to "pop" without giving off the appearance of a woman who's really, really into makeup, so into makeup she has this site bookmarked in her Web favorites.

The key to the basic eye is to apply with a light hand. Unless you are Catherine Zeta-Jones or Beyonce and have been blessed with sultry dark looks, opt for a lighter shade than kohl or black. The basic eye is all about appearing natural. Leave the black for the looks below.

This look calls for liquid or pencil eyeliner, a deep-hued eyeshadow and an eyeliner brush.

Step 1: Holding the skin of your upper lid taut, apply eyeliner from the outside corner of the eye, stopping two-thirds of the way along the eyelid. Apply with short strokes, drawing the line into the lash line rather than above it. For a more dramatic look, make the outside line a bit thicker than the inside.

Step 2: Set liner with a deep eyeshadow. Dip eyeshadow brush into the shadow, then apply shadow over the eyeliner. This will set the eyeliner, which tends to rub off on eyelid.

Step 3: Apply eyeshadow to lower lashes. Using your eyeshadow brush, apply the deep-hued eyeshadow along the bottom lashes, from the outside in. Unless you have wide-set eyes, don't line the entire lower lid. Instead, stop halfway across. For a more natural look, don't dip the brush into the shadow again, instead, use the excess that's still on the brush for the lower lashes.

Step 4:Clean up any mistakes with a cotton swab.

Extra tips: To make eyes appear wider, trace the inner rims of eyes with a white pencil.

Throw out the cheapie applicators that come with your makeup. Investing in a good set of makeup brushes is key to a flawless face).

The Smoky Eye

Ahhh the smoky eye. Perhaps there is no longer running eye makeup trend than the smoky eye, which is in no danger of going out of style. The key here is to blend well. Also, make sure to keep all other makeup light or you risk looking like a clown. You don't want the rest of your makeup to compete with your eyes.

Step 1: Holding the skin of your upper lid taut, apply eyeliner from the inside corner of the eye outward. Draw strokes into the lash line. The middle of the line should be a bit thicker than the edges.

Step 2: Use a cotton swap (or your finger, if you're lazy like me) to "smudge" the liner.

Step 3: Dab an eyeshadow brush into a deep-hued eyeshadow and apply over the eyeliner to set the line. (Blow on the brush first to remove any excess shadow). Layering liner with a shadow is the secret to a perfect smoky eye.

Step 4: Blend shadow well, then follow with eyeshadow. According to the March 2006 issue of InStyle Magazine, with a smoky eye, "color should diffuse from rich and dark near the lashes to almost sheer as it extends to the crease."

The Bold, Dramatic Eye

Bold eyes are a dramatic choice for evening. Try eyeliner shades other than deep black for a super cool look. You can use either a liquid liner or try the makeup artist's trick and use an angled eyeshadow brush dipped in a deep-hued eyeshadow. Skip the pencil for this look.

Step 1: Holding the skin of your upper lid taut, apply the liquid liner from the middle of the eye to the outside corner of the eye.

Step 2: Draw a second line from the inside corner of your eye, letting the two lines meet. The outer edge of the line should be thicker than the inside. If you have close-set eyes, avoid taking the line all the way to the inside corner.

The Cat Eye

Forget the advice you may have read in the past never to line the inside rims of eyes because it makes eyes look tiny. Sexy cat eyes are a cool look for night. The key to this look is to apply a thin line to the inside rims of the lids.

Step 1: Holding the skin of your upper lid taut, dot liquid liner along the upper lash line as close to the eye as possible. Apply line from corner to corner of eye, extending the line upward at the outer corner of eye. Let liner dry for a few minutes before touching.

To soften this look (black liquid liner can be harsh), InStyle Magazine suggests trying a smudgeable pencil in a lighter color like dark brown or charcoal.

Step 2: Hold down the lower lid and apply liner only to the outer three quarters of the rim. Fade out the line as you approach the tear duct, according to makeup artist Mally Roncal in the March 2006 edition of InStyle Magazine. Extend the liner upwards at the outer corners.

For a softer version of this look, use an eye shadow brush and sweep a taupe or brown color on the lower lash line.

The Best Eyeshadow Brushes on the Market from Steep to Cheap Best pricey brushes are made by Shu Uemura

Trish McEvoy smudge, contouring and liner brushes are exceptional

MAC Cosmetics makes lovely brushes priced more middle-of-the road. Purchase them at MAC counters.

The most famous inexpensive makeup brushes are made by Sonia Kashuk and can be purchased at Target.


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15 Mascara Tricks & Tips--Everything You Need To Know About Mascara

We've compiled a list of great mascara tips & tricks to share with you. Follow these and you'll save money, look prettier and your eyes will appear brighter nd wider.
  • Tip #1: How to use a lash comb. For some, lash combs are simply too fussy. But for some makeup artists, they're a great invention and keep lashes glob-free and perfectly separated. So how to use? Apply mascara at the lash base. Then wiggle the lash comb through to the tips of your lashes. Not into the lash comb? Get rid of clumbs without them by removing excess mascara from the wand. Wipe wand on tissue, this eliminates blobs BEFORE you start.
  • Tip #2: Try a clean mascara wand. Sweep a clean, fresh mascara wand through lashes when they're wet. Don't worry, you don't have to buy them. When you finish a mascara, clean the wand in a capful of eye makeup remover, then wash with soap and dry. Keep it clean by washing it whenever you wash your makeup tools.
  • Tip #3: Don't shy away from colored mascara. Basic mascara rules are simple: Black works for everyone but can be harsh on blondes. Blondes should opt for brown/black by day and reserve black for night. Blue mascara, however, can brighten blue eyes while purple mascara makes brown eyes pop. The most popular mascara sold in the US is Maybelline Great Lash mascara, a great buy at under $6. The company estimates one tube is sold every 1.6 seconds in the U.S.
  • Tip #4: When applying mascara, wiggle the wand at the base of the lashes. It's the mascara placed near the roots (not the tips) that gives the illusion of length.
  • Tip #5: Thin, short brushes are best. A thinner brush allows you to get into the corner of eyes. Short brushes give you more control.
  • Tip #6: Give a few coats to the edges by blinking. Blink onto the brush to give ends an extra coat.
  • Tip #7: Powder under the eye before applying mascara. Sometimes mascara smudges because it's attracted to oily concealer or eye creams.
  • Tip #8: Use an eyelash curler Curling lashes gives eyes the appearance of being wider and brighter. Shoot warm air from your blowdryer on the mascara curler for 3-5 seconds to warm it up before curling lashes. Touch it first to make sure it's not too hot. It's a myth that you have to curl lashes before you apply mascara. You can curl lashes after mascara application, just make sure the mascara is dry first. Shu Uemura makes the most popular eyelash curler on the market ($18-$22).
  • Tip #9: Zig-zag the wand. Zig-zagging the wand back and forth during application helps cut down clumps.
  • Tip #10: For a dramatic look, apply mascara only to the upper lashes. To make eyes seem wider, apply to the bottom, too. But make sure you give lashes a light touch. Not great at getting those bottom lashes? Try putting a tissue under them before application.
  • Tip #11: Use a mascara primer. Primers coat lashes and separate them before you apply mascara. Makeup artists swear by mascara primer. I tried it and like it, but because it's an added step, I usually use primer only on special occasion when I spend more time on my makeup.
  • Tip #12: Want that 2nd coat? Just make sure to do it before the first coat dries, otherwise you'll get clumps.
  • Tip #13: Do NOT pump wand in and out of the tube. This only introduces air into the tube, which will cause your mascara to dry out sooner than it should.
  • Tip #14: Another smudge-proof tip -- bend the wand. A top makeup artist once gave his secret to his steady hand: he always bends his wand at a right angle.
  • Tip #15: Wait five seconds before blinking. You don't want to paint your lids, do you?


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12 Secrets to Sexy Hair-- What Your Stylist Didn't Tell You (But Told Us)

Don't you just love it when your stylist teaches you a trick that you just know you'll use for the rest of your life? Here we've compiled 12 secrets to sexy hair that we learned from years of talking to stylists & compiling style secrets from magazines. Enjoy!

Secret #1: Skip the daily shampoo Chances are you've heard the beauty secret that dirty hair is easier to style. Well it's true. Washing hair every 2-3 days does not result in 'dirty' hair per se, but actually helps promote healthy hair. Washing hair every day can rob hair of essential oils which can lead to dry scalp and hair. So skip the daily scrubs.
If you have dry, coarse hair, don't skip the conditioner when you shower. Oily, lifeless hair? Sprinkle baby powder or dry shampoo at the roots and crown.

Secret #2: Buns are cool, but keep them loose Updos aren't just for prom, New Years and Lois Lane. A loose, casual updo is a quick way to look pulled together. Simple finger-comb hair into a low, disheveled bun or knot and attach with a ponytail holder and bobby pins. And please, leave the tight, ballerina 'do for the dancers. .

Secret #3: Want Sexy, Messy, "Just Off the Beach" Waves? The secret is in sea salt spray. We once dropped by one of Manhattan's hottest salons to check in on the new perming trend. We wanted sexy, loose waves and we were wondering if they did them there via the perming process.
No can do, said the girl at the front desk, who just happened to have the hair we wanted. "Do you happen to perm your hair?" We asked, oh-so-delicately. She smiled and leaned to tell us a little secret. "Nope, I use sea salt. And I make it myself." You too can make a spray using a bottle, several tablespoons of sea salt and water. But if you want to buy it yourself, we recommend our favorite sea salt spray, Bumble and Bumble's Surf Spray.

So skip the perm and first try spritzing sea salt on damp hair, scrunching hair and letting air dry. Since most hair has some sort of natural wave, the sea salt naturally enhances it.

Secret #4: Don't bring out the brush too soon When blowdrying hair, separate tangles with fingers until hair is about 80 percent dry THEN try brushing. You want to make sure your fingers glide through hair effortlessly before introducing a brush to wet or even damp hair.

Secret #5: Bangs are hot, just make sure you get the right bangs We love the look of thick, heavy bangs and side-swept bangs. Just avoid the thin, wispy, all-one-length bang -- it will make your face look "boxy" and dated. A very hot look right now are thick bangs paired with long, wavy layers. Sexy. Especially with perfect highlights. Not ready for the thick bangs? Try side-swept bangs paired with long layers. Layering hair with bangs works best because it's less boxy while allowing your hair to grow out without looking too extreme if you decide to grow out the trend.

Secret #6: Yes, you can go blonde or red Some skin types work best with colors than others. Most olive-skinned women (think Jennifer Lopez or Linda Evangelista) can get away with any hair color: Blonde, black, brunette and even red. Women with pink tones have a harder time and can't get too drastic. But believe it or not, pink skin tones tend to work well with red hair color. As for going blonde, if you were fairly blonde-ish as a child in the summer, then you are a good candidate for going blonde as an adult. But olive-skinned girls with black or brown hair can look great blonde, too. Have a stylist help pick the right tone for you.

Secret #7: Don't go long and blah You know the look -- hair that's gone just a little too long, has no style and is just plain, well, blah. We've all been there (I was there earlier today until I visited my stylist Antonio at Eva Scrivo Salon in NYC). What this hairstyle says to the world is "I am low-maintenance and can't be bothered with regular salon visits." This is fine if you aren't interested in making an impression on anybody and feeling fabulous. But it isn't sexy. Cut in some layers, add some bangs, get some highlights. Just get yourself to a salon, pronto.

Secret #8: The secret to 'piece-y' hair You know the look you're going for. That long, wavy hair where the waves seem to fall in pieces. Some stylists swear it's in the cut. It most definitely is -- but you also need the right product.
To get the "piece-y" look, you want long layers -- hair that's just one length simply won't do. Your stylist will also want to lighten the thickness of hair by texturizing, this basically lightens the load and gives hair needed body. Texturizing also gives hair thickness at the roots, allowing it to fall in sexy, soft waves.
Once you have the perfect cut, however, don't forget the product. A good pomade run through hair helps separate pieces. We like Kenra Platinum Texturizing Taffy Pomade. But almost every haircare brand will have a nice pomade.

Secret #9: Get Runway hair with Velcro rollers Runway stylists know the simplest, non-fussy way to get hair to roll properly is to curl it with a curling iron first. First, spritz dry hair with a styling spray (we like TRESemme Instant Heat Tamer Styling Spray), then use a medium curling iron to curl 2-inch sections of hair before rolling hair in Velcro rollers. The new curl simply takes best to the Velcro.

Secret #10: A temporary end to frayed ends Here's a stylist secret courtesy of the February, 2006, issue of Marie Claire: When suffering from the nasty frayed endsies, hairstylist Rodney Groves spreads Kerastase Serum Nutri-Sculpt (a leave-in treatment) through dry hair, then blasts ends with a blow dryer. We recommend you put this product on your list & keep it around for those moments before every hair cut when we need help (& fast!)

Secret #11: Don't wait too long before color touch-ups If you get your color touched up on a regular basis (about every 28 days) you may actually keep your hair from unnecessary damage. Not waiting too long means your stylist won't have to dye your whole head due to color fading. In the meantime, cover up roots with a home hair-color kit. Although there are great root touch-up kits out there, a regular dye kit will do you. And don't worry about perfectly matching, it's likely not going to happen on a salon dye job & no one will notice. Swap out the brush that comes in the kit & instead use a clean mascara wand (you can get these at any drugstore).

Secret #12: Shiny hair doesn't have to be genetic Stylist know the secret to sheen is to spritz or add a couple drops of shine serum. We like Bumble & Bumble's gloss. We also like Mop Glisten Shine Drops:




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Teasing Hair Is Back-- How To Do It Right

Every once in awhile, when hair is flat and limp, a bit of a tease goes a long way. But don't go all out -- a full head of teased hair doesn't look good on anyone, I don't care if you were born, bred and currently reside in Dallas (I can say this as I hail from Texas).

Here's how to get a great head of mildly teased hair.

Rule #1: Focus on the crown. Teasing at your crown -- rather than all over -- will give you just the right amount of volume.

Rule #2: Skip the comb. Stylists recommend using a flat-backed brush instead of a comb, the brushes are easier on your locks.

Rule #3: Get creative. Curl your hair in rollers, slick hair back in a low ponytail or pull a headband into place. I also love it when a basic curled hair has oomph from teased hair. Have fun with your new volume.


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Wednesday, March 26, 2008

How to Dress Up a Boring Holiday Hairstyle

Loose buns are ultra-cool this season, but you don't want to look too undone at your holiday or New Year's Eve party this year. Dress up an updo or bun with a hair accessory. You can pick up cheap ones at just about any store in the hair section, but why not get creative & use your brooch from last season (when brooches were in)? Pin brooch onto a pony tail holder & then wrap around loose bun.

Other tips:
Attach brooch to an old fabric-covered barrette and clip the barrette on the side of a French twist or bun.
Take a long strand of pearls or any pretty bauble and wrap around updo. You can even braid these in for a super funky look.
Try a headband, but wear it right. Place band about 2 inches from the hairline, tilting it slightly forward. Let bangs hang out.



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Don't Have Time To Do Your Hair?-Tips to look good without a lot of time or money

A woman recently wrote in with this question:

Hello,
I am 21, and just had a baby 6 months ago. I am very happy with my body already, but my hair is awful!!! I am having problems going to the salon to get it fixed (money and time), but I am very self conscience about it. I think I look 35 years old. It is straight, brown, medium length, and STRAIGHT! Did I mention it is straight? I can't even curl my hair with a curling iron or blow dryer. It is stringy but my husband doesn't want it short! HELP, what do I do with it?!?

Thanks :)
Bonny
Canon City
, CO


Hi Bonny,

There is nothing worse than hating your hair and having little time to do anything about it.
Here are some time-and-money saving tips and tricks for moms (and anyone who doesn't have a lot of time or money):

Tip 1: Skip the fancy salons All you want is for your hair to look healthy, you don't need a fancy $50 haircut. Some of my friends with the cutest, heathiest hair go to strip malls and pay $15 for their cuts. Have the stylist cut off your split ends and make sure to go back on a regular basis. Trust me: For a simple cut, you can't tell if the person got their hair cut at Oscar Blandi in NYC or in a Kentucky strip mall.

Tip 2: The simpler the cut, the better. What you need is a cut that will look good as it grows out. I suggest a chin-length bob or perhaps long layers. A layered cut will add body and looks great blown out or scrunched up after a shower to add some natural waves. With a bob, you can just brush and go, letting it airdry naturally.

Tip 3: Bored with your color? Buy a bottle and dye your hair. Just be sure to select a shade that's no more than a couple shades lighter or darker than your own hair so you don't have to spend a lot of time upkeeping your roots. If you have some money, getting a half-head of foiled highlights will brighten blah brown and the highlights effect tends to last a bit longer than overall color, because you don't have to hassle as much with upkeep.

Tip 4: Ponytails are your savior. Few women your age look older in a ponytail. Pull hair back and you'll not only accent your face, you'll love how carefree not having that hair in your face all the time makes you feel.



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How to Find The Part in Your Hair

If you're wondering how to find the part in your hair, simply brush dry hair forward and then shake your head to see where your hair naturally parts. Use a comb to part a perfect line. Most people have natural parts in their hair, but if you don't you can create your own. Here are some tips on what parts look best by face shape:

Long or oval faces These face shapes look best with a side part. Part hair in line with the arch in your eyebrow, suggests stylist Garren, in Allure magazine.

Round or square faces Your best bet is a middle part, which tends to make your face and features appear longer.

Prominent forehead and jutty chin Play down these features with a part that's just off-center, suggests Garren.

When creating a part, you'll want to do so with wet hair so it dries in place.



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How To Properly Apply Hair Products

You won't achieve your desired hairstyle without hair products, according to Antonio Gonzales, master stylist at Eva Scrivo salon in New York City.

"Water is not enough!" says Antonio. "The hair needs to be protected."

To properly apply a styling spray, cream or gel, saturate hair with product, then comb product through hair so it is evenly distributed. You want the product to coat each strand rather than just sit on top of it, according to Eva Scrivo in the March 2007 issue of 'O' Magazine.

Antonio suggests using a wide-toothed comb or boar's hair brush to comb hair. Never use plastic or metal brushes, he says.

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How to Get "Piecey" Hair

I've always admired the "piecey" look: The somewhat chunky effect some women have and most of us don't. I wondered, what's the secret to this look? Turns out it's all in the finishing product. Pomades, waxes and putties work to bind hair together, creating a "piecey effect." How to get it:

It's important to start with dry hair. Rub a small amount of product between hands, then apply to random chunky pieces of hair. It's best to apply product from mid-shaft of hair down. (Get too close to the crown and hair could turn greasy). Separate chunks of hair to create the piecey effect.

This is a great look for short, layered hair but will work on other lengths as well.

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